Girona, Spain, is not typically one of the first places to come to mind when Americans think about Spain.
That’s one of the things I love most about traveling, though. I heard about Girona from a fellow foreigner when I lived in Paris and she bequeathed me a classic seemingly-tangential but ultimately-useful tidbit of information: Flights from Paris to Girona were only 23 euros. At the time, she was inviting me to accompany her on a spontaneous trip, but I was forced to say no because it conflicted with my au pair kids’ schedule (funny how they have to be picked up from school every day – sigh).
This article was last updated March 30, 2024.
And yet, the information sparked interest in the destination
A quick Google search revealed that Girona is:
- a small city with a population of approximately 100,000
- an easy train ride away from Barcelona
- a bus ride away from the ocean, and
- boasts a gorgeous old town with a cathedral immortalized in the mainstream imagination thanks to Game of Thrones.
I remember shaking my head and laughing, briefly entertaining the joy I would feel exploring a small Spanish town knowing the kids I nanny were stuck in school…before regretfully rejecting the offer.
Because children are the future’s shining beacons of hope and I loved working with them every.single.day.
Related reading for those considering coming to Europe as an au pair: Reflections Of An Au Pair – The Millennial Abroad
Don’t worry people, I’m not a nanny anymore.
All this to say, I would never have heard of Girona (pronounced “hee-rona” for English speakers) if it hadn’t been for that brief exchange.
Fast forward a few months to July in Paris. I was sweltering with my mom and brother in the sauna created by multiple laptops running simultaneously in a gorgeous Haussmannian-style (read: non-air conditioned) residence.
The mission: Plan a two-week France/Spain trip.
We planned to start in Lyon so we could breathe the same air as Megan Rapinoe while she and the USWNT unapologetically won their fourth Women’s World Cup, bus south to Marseille to visit family friends… and here is where we stalled.
My brother was determined to go to Barcelona. I self-righteously balked at contributing to the city’s problem with over-tourism at the height of the season, insisting on Girona with a sisterly whine and dark ruminations on the similarities between coexistence with siblings and Sisyphus’ punishment.
And then, inspiration dawned.
“Stop being stupid. Girona is where they filmed some big scene in Game of Thrones.” (Actually, many big scenes.)
“Which one?” He asked suspiciously.
“I don’t know, the one with the cathedral.”
“The Great Sept of Baelor is in Girona?!”
“Yeah. Stupid.”
And so it was settled.
We planned to bus from Marseille to Barcelona (a seven-hour trip that borders on too long but alas, Flixbus is very affordable, if not always punctual). From there, we booked a train from Barcelona to Girona.
As always happens when you assure your companions of the simplicity of something you have no personal experience with, this turned out to be an exasperating day to the hundredth power.
I suppose this can be interpreted as karma for how often I call my middle brother stupid when we’re together. (Love you, bro.)
What to do in Girona, Spain
As I mentioned, Girona is quite small. The main city attractions can be visited on a day trip, although I would encourage you to go for a weekend if possible.
Girona Cathedral
Walk along the ancient city wall
Called the “Passeig de la Muralla,” this walk involves a bit of stair climbing. Be prepared to sweat a bit, and don’t forget to wear a hat, sunscreen, and comfortable walking shoes. That Spanish sun is no joke!
That said, this is an absolute must-do for the gorgeous sprawling views. We were rewarded with clear views of the Northern Spanish countryside, and it was on this walk that I realized there is probably a lot more to see in this region than initially meets the eye.
Explore the Old Quarter
The city center was so accessible from our Airbnb that we easily passed two days doing double takes simply walking the winding streets and alleys. The old town is called “Barri Vell” and is located beside the River Onyar. (Don’t those names just feel like they should be part of some mythological place?)
It was such a pleasurable sensory experience that it didn’t even occur to me to look at things to do outside the city before it was time to leave.
While exploring Old Town, you may stumble upon a piece of architecture that looks vaguely reminiscent of something larger and better known.
Walk the Pont de less Peixateries Velles
The Eiffel Bridge, as it’s known, is a lesser-known work by Gustave Eiffel, the mastermind behind the Eiffel Tower in Paris! The bridge arches over the Onyar River and offers a plethora of photo opportunities. When you’ve snagged the shot, I recommend grabbing ice cream from the nearby Rocambolesc Gelateria.
Stroll La Rambla de la Llibertat
If you haven’t picked up on it already, Girona is a town great for walking. The city Rambla is the main pedestrian street in town and lined by buildings designed in dramatic and varied architectural styles. On Saturdays, there is a lovely flower market.
Relax in one of the many green spaces
One of the many things I’ve come to appreciate since living in Europe is the affinity for a nice afternoon break. When my American brain makes travel plans, I feel compelled to jam as much stuff into the day as possible, and feel bad about myself when I inevitably run out of steam. These days, I know better, and love baking in a free afternoon to simply “be” in the place I’m visiting.
Girona has some gorgeous parks that would be perfect for enjoying a lunch, cold drink, or even taking a nap. Check out Pard de la Devesa and Parc de Visa Allegre for starting points on how to chill like a European on vacation.
Save for later…
One of my last acts on the Airbnb WiFi was to scroll through the gorgeous local hiking routes in the Pyrenees and information on how easy it is to get to Costa Brava from Girona.
Damn.
Fortunately, being based in France makes the prospect of a return trip to this ancient city very doable.
So, is Girona worth visiting?
Absolutely. If you’re a fan of quiet, smaller cities steeped in local Catalan tradition and nature, you’ll love Girona.
Hotels in Girona
In all likelihood, Girona will likely be an overnight or weekend getaway from Barcelona. So, the recommendations below are based on some places that look like they’d be a nice home base for a quick visit. Eventually, I hope to return and make more personalized recommendations based on a longer stay. But, for now, it’s no hardship to look up hotels and see what looks nice in the area if it saves you a bit of time 🙂
Hotel Costabella: A Classy Catalan Escape
Steeped in local Catalan culture, Hotel Costabella seems to offer the best of both worlds. Elevated comfort in the form of a luxe common area, pristine pool time options, and delicious onsite dining. At the same time, the aura of escape and retreat invites you to explore the local region knowing that excellent service and complete comfort await upon your return. Reserve Hotel Cosabella on Booking.
Hotel Museu Llegendes de Girona
Located in the heart of Girona, this locally-named hotel promises to transport you to another time. Girona Old Town feels like walking around in your favorite fantasy novel’s regional city. Travelers who want to truly immerse themselves in Girona will love this romantic option with an onsite restaurant, multiple luxurious suites to choose from, and more. Check the availability of the Hotel Museu Llegendes de Girona on your dates.
DoubleTree by Hilton Girona: The familiar budget option
For many Americans, visiting somewhere new can feel overwhelming, and a familiar brand name can give a boost of reassurance. This DoubleTree seems to offer a great combination of novelty blended with comfort. Amenities include an onsite restaurant, an outdoor pool, and rooms with balconies. It is also part of the Hilton Collection, so rewards and bonus points may be possible. See if your dates are available on Booking.
